I’m sure I’ve mentioned this before, but if not, you should know that I’m a huge Ruth Reichl fangirl. Aside from the Harry Potter series, her books are my absolute favorite things to read. Her descriptions are so visual and sensory; I can never get them out of my head. Awhile back, I read a tweet she wrote about Egg Slut in LA and felt like I could literally taste her breakfast through my phone screen. I had to have it for myself.
“Sunshine. Walking. Discovered EggSlut. Irresistible. Gently coddled egg, richly pureed potato. Shower of coarse salt, chive. Spectacular!” -@ruthreichl
You see what I mean?
So when my mom and I recently invited ourselves on my dad’s quick business trip to L.A., I knew what needed to get done. We were stationed downtown, which if you haven’t heard has been having a revival for some time now. Sure, it doesn’t have the postcard-esque vistas of Santa Monica and Venice, but it is becoming the home of some of the city’s most exciting new restaurants (Alma is still on my list to try).
Egg Slut, which started as a truck, has now made a permanent home for itself in the Grand Central Market downtown. Grand Central feels like a grittier, more authentic version of New York’s Chelsea Market or Seattle’s Melrose Market (that’s not to say I don’t adore both). An artisan cheese counter and pressed juice bar are mixed in with vendors selling amazing looking Chinese food and tamales. It’s the best kind of olfactory overload in this open air treasure trove, but it was 9 a.m. and I had really only come for one reason: I, too, am a slut for eggs (and a great breakfast sandwich).
We each ordered something different so we could try the majority of the menu. We decided on two breakfast sandwiches and the “Slut” itself, which is the coddled egg in the jar Her Royal Highness Ruth was talking about. The sandwiches come fast, but the Slut requires about ten minutes so we were told to go explore the market while we waited.
After downing a couple of expensive hipster coffees (my dad refused to partake) and a green juice (and spotting the cutest French bulldog puppy known to man) during our walk through the market, our breakfast was ready. I ordered the Bacon, Egg, and Cheese sandwich. The bacon was snaking out of the brown paper bag like Medusa’s snakes and it was a gorgeous sight to see. The thick smoked bacon, cheddar cheese, and chipotle ketchup with the over-medium egg (my favorite) on that soft pillowy brioche bun made for a delightfully greasy treat.
My dad went for the Sausage, Egg, and Cheese sandwich. This one was equally delicious and the turkey sausage was surprisingly flavorful and juicy. I honestly didn’t miss the pork. Also, this one had honey mustard aioli on it. How have I never thought of putting mustard on my breakfast sandwiches before? It’s making me question everything.
And lastly, we come to the Slut. This was definitely the most beautiful dish of the three, save for the white plastic spoon I left sitting next to the jar when I snapped the picture. Sure, nine dollars feels a bit steep for a meatless dish served on a paper tray with disposable cutlery, but you can see and taste the thought and care in each bite. It looks like something you would see at any farm to table restaurant for at least that much. (Or am I just brain washed? Don’t answer that.) This is what I want to eat for breakfast on a rainy Seattle day while drinking tea in my pajamas. A coddled egg is served on top of a smooth potato puree and topped with salt and chives. It was salty and creamy and lovely spooned onto the crisp toasts. However, I would’ve liked a few more pieces of bread. The texture freak in me really needed to have a bit of crunchiness with each bite of that silky egg.
Several napkins later, we were feeling fat and happy. It’s not every day that Seattleites like us get to sit outside at a counter to eat breakfast and do some killer people watching. Egg lovers, breakfast sandwich aficionados, this is the spot for you. Take my word, and Ruth’s word for Chrissake, and go Slut out a bit. You know, with eggs.
Egg Slut, 317 South Broadway, Los Angeles, CA, 90013, http://www.eggslut.com, Open 8 a.m. – 4 p.m. daily.